I have a curious affection for L.A. supermarkets that have resolutely refused to get with the 21st Century super-flamboyant, super-abundant, jack-up-the-prices modernization trend. A couple of days ago I visited this dumpy little Vons at the corner of Santa Monica Blvd. and Barrington, and was amazed to note that it has exactly the same facade as it did 28 years ago, when I first arrived out here. It isn’t rustic enough to qualify as a classic landmark or anything, but there’s something vaguely cool about a market that just stands up to the scuzz by refusing a facelift.