“An unexpected element has been added” to “the unvarying male uniform in the precincts of Brooklyn cool,” reports the N.Y. Times Guy Trebay, “and that is a burgeoning potbelly one might term the Ralph Kramden.

“What the trucker cap and wallet chain were to hipsters of a moment ago, the Kramden is to what my colleague Mike Albo refers to as the ‘coolios’ of now. Leading with a belly is a male privilege of long standing, of course, a symbol of prosperity in most cultures and of freedom from anxieties about body image that have plagued women since Eve.

“‘As women have come to outnumber men in the workplace, it becomes more important than ever for guys to armor themselves,’ said David Zinczenko, the editor of Men’s Health, with the ‘complete package of financial and physical,’ to billboard their abilities as survivors of the cultural and economic wilds.”