Taormina is a quiet, comforting, pleasantly scenic mountainside town…or was, I should say, before it was transformed into a kind of Sicilian-hamlet theme park for middle-aged (50-plus) tourist couples. The high-view location is calm and settling, and the silences and especially the cool air in the late evening are transporting, but the silver-haired Club Med vibe almost makes it feel like a retirement community. My mother would love it here.

The only place we could find in town with decent wifi, and reasonably priced — only 73 euros.