The physical appearance of Pulitzer Prize-winning food critic Jonathan Gold doesn’t just mitigate an interest in gourmet-level delicacies. It makes you think about eating less food, period, and doubling down on the cockatoo (i.e., fruit and salads). I think most food critics understand this, and that’s why guys like Anthony Bourdain are cool and Gold, no offense, is not. In my book, at least.