Two days ago we did our big Cinque Terre hike — Monarola to Volastra to the medieval village of Corniglia. The Manarola-to-Volastra phase was rough — a 45-degree uphill trek that came close to killing me. (I had to laugh when I saw the “arresto cardiaco” sign at the end of it.) But this led to a mile-high vineyard path between Volastra and Corniglia that was visually to die for — probably the most stunning sea vista my eyes have ever beheld.