It’s 5:05 am on Monday morning, and I’ve been awake since 3:30 am. I’m sitting in warm, quiet darkness on the rear deck of a Ha Long-based “junk.” The ship is gently bobbing in the not quite placid waters. The white lights of other craft are softly beaming in the distance. A full moon is peeking through cloudy skies. Large, craggy, bullet-shaped mountains surround the bay. The junk guys have shut off the generator so it’s just me and my thoughts and the soothing, pre-dawn solitude. Along with my iPhone and fully-charged MacBook Pro, I mean. Thank God for the Viettel connectivity — two bars but it’s good enough.